Surfers are in tune with the weather because if there's a storm coming, there are waves coming. I love the rain.

The ocean humbles you. You can go and win a world title, but you're never going to beat the ocean.

Experiencing different cultures is one of the best things a human being can do. It puts your whole world into perspective.

Life's too short to sit around and wait.

As long as I'm still surfing wherever I am, I'll always be happy.

What I love the most about surfing is that it's my first love. It's the first thing I can remember being consumed by.

I've always had a determination to perfect whatever I'm doing. If I can't do something, I work on it until I figure it out.

Winning is euphoric, but it lasts a short time. You've got to lap it up, then move on to the next thing. I think I've kept winning because I haven't attached myself to past successes.

My sisters did ballet when we were younger and I remember sitting in the car with my dad and going 'can we hurry up and go surfing!?, I'm sick of waiting for my sisters and their ballet classes.'

When God said 'Let there be light'.May be he meant it Inside.

The books you read in childhood shape the person you become.

Have you ever wanted something so badly that you would do anything, believe anything in order to acquire it?

I loved fairy tales when I was a kid. Grimm. The grimmer the better. I loved gruesome gothic tales and, in that respect, I liked Bible stories, because to me they were very gothic.

Using social media to hurt and destroy is callous, acted out by cowards hiding behind computers. My advice is to ignore negativity. Focus on the love around.

The only reason anyone goes to Broadway is because they can't get work in the movies.

[Jimmy] Breslin's [write] really great book on Branch Rickey. And Branch Rickey himself wrote quite a lot. There's some film and kinescope from television.

I want to be an honest man and a good writer.

Come on, let's go. Crazy people do crazy things.

The photograph is completely abstracted from life, yet it looks like life. That is what has always excited me about photography.