The ocean humbles you. You can go and win a world title, but you're never going to beat the ocean.

Experiencing different cultures is one of the best things a human being can do. It puts your whole world into perspective.

Life's too short to sit around and wait.

As long as I'm still surfing wherever I am, I'll always be happy.

What I love the most about surfing is that it's my first love. It's the first thing I can remember being consumed by.

I've always had a determination to perfect whatever I'm doing. If I can't do something, I work on it until I figure it out.

Winning is euphoric, but it lasts a short time. You've got to lap it up, then move on to the next thing. I think I've kept winning because I haven't attached myself to past successes.

Surfers are in tune with the weather because if there's a storm coming, there are waves coming. I love the rain.

My sisters did ballet when we were younger and I remember sitting in the car with my dad and going 'can we hurry up and go surfing!?, I'm sick of waiting for my sisters and their ballet classes.'

I know O LORD, that a man's way is not in himself. That is not in a man who walks to direct his steps." Jeremiah 10:23

The struggle to leave the cocoon is what strengthens the butterfly’s wings so she can fly. I am about to become something beautiful.

When it comes to words Mamma says, "If they are not good, then maybe they should not be said.

There's water in my bonesa ghost of a chance

This was the consequence of seeing too much and understanding the horrible truth: No one is safe. The world is not manageable.

I do not regret having braved public opinion, when I knew it was wrong and was sure it would be merciless.

One time we saw some hookers but when we got closer we realized it was Motley Crue.

I always had the fear of being separated and abandoned. The sewing is my attempt to keep things together and make things whole.

Struggle is actually something that is important to the process of understanding what true happiness is.

The great blessings of mankind are within us and within our reach; but we shut our eyes, and, like people in the dark, we fall foul upon the very thing we search for, without finding it.