Not to sound too deep or weird, but I assume that the occasions once you pretty take pleasure in surfing are the occasions you are extremely kind of getting a single with nature.

It's like the mafia. Once you're in - your in. There's no getting out.

Not to sound too deep or weird, but I think that the times when you really appreciate surfing are the times you're really sort of becoming one with nature. Surfing's as raw of a sport as it gets.

Motivation is temporary. Inspiration is permanent.

The joy of surfing is so many things combined, from the physical exertion of it, to the challenge of it, to the mental side of the sport.

It's all about where your mind's at

I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it's almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time.

Surfing is my religion, if I have one.

For a surfer, it's never-ending. There's always some wave you want to surf.

I've always thought surfing is a reflection of who you are.

Most anything I've ever set my mind to, I could accomplish.

Jesus, Made in Heaven, assembled on earth.

Do what gives you joy and you will enjoy what you do.

She was a perfectly clean slate--a total enigma.

on. I’m getting cold.’ Clutching the pluckers, I call her. ‘Right,

My mother was an activist so was my father. They came from a generation of young Somalis who were actively involved in getting independence for Somalia in 1960.

To make Democracy work, you need an aristocratic democracy. To make Aristocracy work, you need a democratic aristocracy.

My idea of the real aristocrat is the master workman, no matter what his line of work may be.

The animal frame, though destined to fulfill so many other ends, is as a machine more perfect than the best contrived steam-engine-that is, is capable of more work with the same expenditure of fuel.

But what happens when her beauty is torn from her like a cover from a book? Will he care to read her then, although her pages speak of nothing but love for him?

People have called me fake, but personally, I don't think I'm fake because I'm so insincere.