I've always thought surfing is a reflection of who you are.

It's like the mafia. Once you're in - your in. There's no getting out.

Not to sound too deep or weird, but I think that the times when you really appreciate surfing are the times you're really sort of becoming one with nature. Surfing's as raw of a sport as it gets.

Motivation is temporary. Inspiration is permanent.

The joy of surfing is so many things combined, from the physical exertion of it, to the challenge of it, to the mental side of the sport.

It's all about where your mind's at

I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it's almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time.

Surfing is my religion, if I have one.

For a surfer, it's never-ending. There's always some wave you want to surf.

Most anything I've ever set my mind to, I could accomplish.

A wave isn't like a skate ramp or mountain; everything's moving around, and you have to time how to move along with it. That's easier with a slow wave.

The best times we’ve had on earth are usually with those we love.

My family is just an amazing melting pot of wonderful religions and faiths.

On my tenth birthday a bicycle and an atlas coincided as presents and a few days later I decided to cycle to India.

There can be no great literature in America until her writers have learned to trust her implicitly and love her devoutly.

History's just one darn thing after another.

Any good writer is going to be well-received and is going to not be well-received; that's how you know you're a great writer.

The Great Commission to go into all the world is not only geographical, but must include every field, profession, discipline, sport, etc.

They lose nothing who gain Christ.

No, I'm not a Republican working in Hollywood, I am a Democrat.

Governments need to have both shepherds and butchers.