Your surfing can get better on every turn, on every wave you catch. Learn to read the ocean better. A big part of my success has been wave knowledge.

It's like the mafia. Once you're in - your in. There's no getting out.

Not to sound too deep or weird, but I think that the times when you really appreciate surfing are the times you're really sort of becoming one with nature. Surfing's as raw of a sport as it gets.

Motivation is temporary. Inspiration is permanent.

The joy of surfing is so many things combined, from the physical exertion of it, to the challenge of it, to the mental side of the sport.

It's all about where your mind's at

I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it's almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time.

Surfing is my religion, if I have one.

For a surfer, it's never-ending. There's always some wave you want to surf.

I've always thought surfing is a reflection of who you are.

Most anything I've ever set my mind to, I could accomplish.

Sometimes falling apart is the bravest act of all

If you look a word up in the dictionary and twenty minutes later you're still wandering around in the dictionary, you probably have the most basic equipment you need to be a poet.

That which costs little is less valued.

I am skin, but underneath livesfire and stars and wild!

Castro has been a teacher for me. A master. Not on ideology but on strategy.

Photography has escalated almost exponentially! It is a language which covers almost every aspect of communication; factual and expressive.

when you speak of other people's marriages, you are, of course, saying something about your own.

We all learn from each other, and I never really hung out with guys in that way, so I missed out.

You ain't supposed to get salmon when they're swimming upstream to spawn. But if you're hungry, you do.

Ten million dollars after I'd become a star I was deeply in debt.