I think it is easy to be a doctor. There are a hell of a lot more doctors than there are guys riding big Pipeline.

It's easier to die when you have lived, than it is to die when you haven't. So I say to all young people, go make memories; beautiful memories. Because when the time comes to go, you won't go alone.

Big wave surfers are human beings that have powers. They are men of enormous gentility.

Health is a presence of a superior state of wellbeing, a vigor, a vitality, a pizzazz you have to work for every single day of your life.

Death is not a stalker, always looking for us. Death is a scorekeeper tallying up how much we love life and how much we are willing to work for it. We die when we stop living.

I don't see myself as legendary. If you want a legend, talk about someone like Duke Kahanamoku.

It's easier to die when you have lived than it is to die when you haven't.

The reason he [Duke Kahanamouku] didn't like me was that I liked him too much.

There is a wisdom in the wave - high-born, beautiful - for those who would but paddle out.

The greatest thing in life is health.

I love to be called Doc.

Don’t neglect the importance of prayer in your Christian life.

Sedona is beautiful, but your soul is even more beautiful.

Inside me are the real things that give me strength—my thoughts, the small stones of my own choosing. They tumble in my mind, some polished from frequent turning, some new and rough, some that cut.

Sometimes people do misguided things for the most honorable of reasons.

Wealth is the ability to fully experience life.

Maternal health remains a staggering challenge, particularly in the developing world. Globally, a woman dies from complications in childbirth every minute.

I'm trying to write stories that are interesting and enjoyable.

I've always felt that I shouldn't make a movie if someone else could do it better.

If something's important to you, you make time for it.

Oh, no man knows Through what wild centuries Roves back the rose.