I could walk and swim at 10 months old.

I feel that it's the music, not anything else, that matters.

Surfboards were everywhere. When I got my first new board, I was probably in kindergarten.

I get to surf every day.

New York and New Jersey are probably two of my favorite places to get really good surf in the summertime.

Human beings *do* metamorphose. They change their identity constantly. However, each new identity thrives on the delusion that it was always in possession of the body it has just conquered.

There’s something so great about this, ” she whispers. About what?” I whisper back.About this, ” she whispers. About being outlaws. It’s just you and me—against the world.

For some it is harder to wake up to the truth of life than it is to fall into the sleep of death

They certainly give very strange names to diseases.

The brains of humans contain a mechanism that is designed to give priority to bad news.

I think about all my successes and failures and sometimes the failures stick in your head as much as the wins. But you do move on.

It is a cliché about British bands going to America and being broken by the experience.

Documenting one's life in the midst of living it is a strange pursuit.

What else can the young be? When you are on the bottom, you must organize from the bottom up