Hawaii is the birthplace of surfing, and many Hawaiians or part-Hawaiians surf, but in the rest of the United States it's a pretty white sport.

I'm trying to find out what's actually true, which is nearly always something, if not a world of things, that you can't read in books.

You're after something - not a story, but a certain, exquisitely intense encounter with beauty - and the only way to find it is to tiptoe past the dragon's cave.

Memoir is a weird genre for a reporter. You end up investigating your own memories, reporting out your past.

I remember surfing in Fiji, Samoa, Tonga, even Madeira, when local fishermen had never seen a surfboard before, and refused to believe that we could ride a wave on one.

The differences between the received wisdom, the standard version of events, and the facts on the ground may be subtle or they may be stark, even profound.

I always wanted to write. While I was on a long surf trip, supporting myself with various day jobs, I was working hard on a novel. My third novel, in fact.

Even wars, big conflicts that have drawn a lot of news coverage, sometimes seem to me to have a center that hasn't been described, that might yet be glimpsed if approached from some odd angle.

The sacred path leads to destiny destination.

Never risk in the dark to search the light. Conversely, be light and shine in the darkness as a moon.

Where is the culture of cleanliness?

The hardest thing to do in this world is to have a steadfast mind & will to be who God called you to be.

I used to have all of my ducks in a row. Now I'm happy to just have them in my vicinity.

When it comes time to do your own life you either perpetuate your childhood or you stand on it and finally kick it out from under.

The knowledge of ourselves, therefore, is not only an incitement to seek after God, but likewise a considerable assistance towards finding him.

And that's why, you know, it's players like Randy Moss that unfortunately put a stain on the entire league.

When every memory has been made and the pages start to fade. And every prayer you ever prayed is heaven bound. When you think the ride is over, you're back at the beginning. Love is never-ending.

I think psychotherapy saves lives and is hugely meaningful and I think that one of the unfortunate aspects of prescription drugs working well is that people tend to think that's enough.